So many things:
Dice not leaving your hand parallel with the table
One finger lower or high than the other
flip of the wrist
so many things

Dom

Repo,

I used my iPad Mini for the same homemade video analysis, using “Coach’s Eye” to record at 120 FPS. I found the stop motion very helpful. I start with gripping the dice, holding them close to the lens, then throwing – with good lighting. Immediately, I saw that my thumb was a tiny bit more on one dice than the other. Wobble problem fixed.

In your case, it sounds like your dice are on axis, so wobble is not your problem. If your getting “good” 7’s, but your dice are on axis and grouped together, then double-pitch could be the problem. Like Dom said, so many things, and the classes are perfect for that. Here, I’m just discussing double-pitch, which might help you, as it has me.

Let me share what I observed this last week in Las Vegas while observing top notch, experienced, players. I can’t tell you how great it was being there. The shots were beautiful, but they, too, were hitting good 7’s at a bad time. In my humble opinion, having thought about this and applying it to my own shot, I think the appearance of good 7’s on what would otherwise be a great shot is more likely when the dice exceed 4 rotations before 1st hitting the table.

To explain, if just one finger (index or ring finger) is a tiny, tiny bit higher or lower, say 0.8 mm (1/32nd in). After 4 rotations, that would be 3.2 mm, which will not result in a double-pitch if the dice hit the table on axis. It will very likely give you a 5 or 9, ignoring table surface irregularities. Now, increase the rotations to 20. That would be 16 mm (dice are 9 mm x 9 mm). You are now in double-pitch territory. High numbers of rotations can be necessary, but, man, they can really magnify tiny grip imperfections.

The over rotations are often caused by flicking the wrist, but can also be achieved by thumb position up or down on the dice.

In summary, over rotation (exceeding 4) requires very, very accurate level finger placement on the dice. A slower rotation of just 4 times allows more tolerance of not quite perfect finger position before causing a double-pitch. There is more math and analysis needed for what I just covered, to be sure. It’s a start. Perhaps the instructors could shed some light.

If you’re like me, you need some fault tolerance in your throw so you can have a good roll. This week, I’m practicing with just 4 rotations. Results look good. Let me know if this helps with what you’re facing.

When your dice are going down the table is one in front of the other or is one higher than the other?

If one is higher your finger are most likely not even, if one is leading the other your thumb is not in the center.

It is also possible that you have uneven pressure on the dice with your fingers. If one finger is gripping one die tighter it would cause that die to lag behind the other one.

Your grip should be as light as possible on both die. Only enough pressure to keep the dice from falling out of your hand.

If you lose the dice in your back swing once in awhile, that is a good thing. That is how light the grip should be on the dice.

All very helpful.

I was wondering about excessive backspin magnifying small grip errors. This makes me want to use height as opposed to backspin to control the action off the wall. Once I improve the release and lose the shift, maybe I can add the backspin back in.

Two replies referred to wrist flick. I thought in the seminar some wrist action was taught. I will keep it as quiet as possible to see if that fixes my shift issue.

One thing I saw very clearly in the video was the sideways bounce when the die were not level. Video helped my golf swing and as Dom says, this is an athletic motion.

You do not want a wrist flick

Dom