From http://www.lasvegasadvisor.com
It could be argued that what makes Las Vegas special and unique as a dining destination today is the fact that it’s home to among the finest selections in the world of internationally renowned chefs – many of whom don’t operate anywhere else in the U.S. But I’m not going to argue that point here, because I believe what you’re referring to are restaurants with their roots in Las Vegas’ past, a distinct breed born of the city’s unique cultural and ethnic history. When it comes to those I’m happy to report that yes, we still have plenty.
The Steakhouse at Circus Circus is among my favorites. It’s been here forever and from the moment you walk through the door, it feels like a flashback to the Rat Pack era. Better yet, the prices are absolutely amazing. A steak here, complete with soup or salad, plus a vegetable and a potato, costs less than what most Strip steakhouses charge for a steak alone.
Golden Steer on West Sahara has a very similar vibe and just as great a history (the brass plaques in the red-leather booths indicating that "this was Dino’s favorite spot," or "Frank sat here" (I paraphrase) are for real. For my money, however, Circus Circus is a better deal.
While the downtown renaissance will hopefully produce some modern classics that are uniquely "Vegas," the next time you’re on Fremont Street don’t forget Hugo’s Cellar in the Four Queens. Small touches, like presenting a lady with a rose as she enters, and preparing your Caesars salad tableside, are just few of the reasons many have considered this the most romantic restaurant in town for decades.
Classic Italian joints steeped in history can be found all over this city. Ferraro’s recently relocated from its original venue to a larger east-side location, but while its digs across the street from the Hard Rock may be new, Mimo Ferraro is still cooking many of the same recipes his family began offering in 1985 on the west side of town – notably their famed osso buco.
Directly behind The Flamingo, Battista’s Hole In The Wall is still going strong after more than 30 years, with its Chianti bottles on the wall and unlimited house wine. Similarly, the Bootlegger Bistro near the Premium Outlet Mall offers the same recipes former Lt. Governor/showgirl Lorraine Hunt’s family have been serving at various locations since 1972. It also features live entertainment: Plenty of Strip performers and visiting stars have been known to drop by unannounced to work out new material or enjoy an escape from the norm. And Piero’s, close to the Convention Center, is not only a blast from the past; with average Strip prices having caught up and, in some instances, overtaken it, this place is no longer looking like the extravagant option it once did.
While Fu (it means "luck") upscale Asian eatery is new to the Hard Rock, owners the Woo family are locals who’ve been serving customers their brand of Chinese-fusion on and off the Strip since 1976, with Mayflower Chinese Restaurant, Mayflower Cuisinier, and more recently the short-lived Woo at Palazzo.
So, as you can see, the heart of "old" Vegas is still beating, represented by plenty of diverse restaurants in the tourist zone. Venture out into the ‘burbs, and you’ll find another slew of newer classics that are also uniquely "Vegas," but I’ll save that for Part II…
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Posted by: Pointman on June 22, 2013, 3:18 pm
Las Vegas restaurant critic and Eating Las Vegas co-author Al Mancini picks up where he left off yesterday, switching from the classic eateries of "old" Las Vegas to highlight some of the unique contemporary gems that continue to put Sin City on the map as a dining destination.
In yesterday’s QoD, I responded to a reader who was bemoaning the loss of those "iconic" Las Vegas restaurants which are, in some instances, being replaced by chains and imports from other cities. I pointed out that there are still plenty of long-established only-in-Vegas venues that are alive and well, but also alluded to the fact that these "old" Vegas spots aren’t the only places that give the city its culinary character these days. So, as a follow-up, I think it’s only fair to point out just a few of the newer spots here in town that have earned their stripes as being integral to the true soul of our city’s cuisine scene.
Todd’s Unique Dining has been a Henderson institution for close to ten years. After a decade at the helm of Bally’s Sterling Champagne Brunch (an iconic old-school feast in its own right), Chef Todd Clore left the Strip to set up shop in the ‘burbs. Unlike too many of the "celebrity-chef" joints, where the figurehead is just that and is rarely to be seen in the kitchen, Clore and and his wife are in the restaurant nearly every day, dishing up seasonally-inspired specials on a menu that changes daily, with the exception of a few perennial signature classics, like the goat-cheese wontons.
Sen of Japan has been a locals’ favorite on the west side for even longer than Todd’s has been on the east. While the new Nobu is making headlines at Caesars Palace, the former chef from Nobu at the Hard Rock, Hiro Nakano, continues to put out inspired Japanese cuisine of the same quality, at a fraction of the price, at his solo sushi joint on Desert Inn.
With its waterfront location at Desert Shores, Marché Bacchus enjoys a truly unique locale that instantly transports you away from the bustle of the Strip (watch out for the birds trying to steal your baguette), while also boasting an unbelievable wine program. Guests are permitted to purchase vino at the attached wine shop, at retail prices, and drink their bottle(s) in the restaurant for a modest $10 corkage fee. This place has become so synonymous with the off-Strip fine-dining scene that, in a rare moment of consensus, my co-authors and I unanimously elevated it to "Top Ten" status in the 2013 edition of the Eating Las Vegas guide.
Lotus of Siam is located in a seedy little strip mall on East Sahara that also houses live sex clubs, a notorious pool hall, and an alternative theater, among other things. But for a taste of the unique and addictive Thai cuisine that Pulitzer Prize-winning food critic Jonathan Gold has called the finest in the U.S., tourists regularly take the cab ride off-Strip to check it out and once tasted, we defy you not to return (particularly for appetizers like the nam kao tod — just trust us and try it! — and Thai beef jerky). Plus, who knows, if all those Thai spices bring out your frisky side, you may be inspired to play out some of your non-gastronomic Vegas fantasies at one of the other establishments located nearby.
Finally, there’s our so-called Chinatown (I say "so-called," since the main plaza would be more accurately termed Koreatown, of which there’s also another example further west, and rather than being a distinct hub, the restaurants sprawl up and off Spring Mountain Road, interspersed with sports bars, shoe-repair stores, vegan and sugar-free bakeries, and restaurants of other ethnicities as diverse as a British pub and an Argentinian steakhouse and deli).
The whole area between Valley View and Jones boasts far too many brilliant Asian restaurants to mention them all by name (although we’ll throw out a few names like Ichiza, Honey Pig, and China Mama, just for the helluvit). However, one little shopping center in particular, located at Spring Mountain and Decatur and referred to by some as "Little Tokyo," boasts an assortment of Japanese restaurants impressive enough to gain national attention. Among them is Monta, the town’s top ramen (sorry, couldn’t resist!) house, while the robata-style grill Raku is another Top Ten pick in our restaurant guide. Kabuto is, without doubt, the town’s best sushi restaurant, offering a style and quality of that cuisine that you usually find only in Japan. Zen Japanese curry house is tiny and inexpensive, but offers an authentic rendition of this uniquely Japanese take on curry that you won’t find in many other cities. Last but not least, the eccentric Trattoria Nakamura-Ya blends Japanese and Italian cuisine into some mind-blowing fusion dishes that must be tasted to be believed. It’s no wonder food critics from around the world regularly include a trip (or three) to this obscure complex as part of their essential Las Vegas dining odyssey.
While a few of the aforementioned eateries are welcome newbies — and hopefully a tantalizing taste of more good things to come –Todd’s, Sen, Lotus, et al., are all firmly established fixtures in the local foodie framework and, in my opinion, fully deserve equal "iconic" billing alongside some of the more "classic" restaurants we highlighted yesterday.
Bon Appétit!
